“The Bakery Is Like Our New Family…” A Dispatch from an Artsakhtsi Refugee

Inside the “Artsakhi Hats” (Bread of Artsakh), you’ll discover baked goods made in-house and from scratch: the tasty reasons this bakery business has become one of the best bakeries of Achajur village of cross-border Tavush Province of Armenia.

But if you arrive early in the morning, you may miss one of the key people behind Artsakhi Hats’ success. Ganna Hakobyan, the main baker, starts her day at 4 a.m., preparing bread and pastries before sunrise. One of several family members working in the business, Ganna brings care and attention to every ingredient that goes into the bread, cookies, and the bakery’s most beloved specialty - ’zhengyalov hats’. In fact, Artsakhi Hats is the only place in Achajur, a village of more than 4,700 residents, where locals can find this traditional dish.

“Zhengyalov hats is usually baked in spring,” Ganna explains, “but when the weather is good, like now, and the greens are fresh, we bake it.” She adds that no matter how tired she feels, working with dough helps her calm down and refocus.

Baking is not new to the family. Back in Artsakh, before their forced displacement in 2023, they were into a similar job in Martakert, baking bread for soldiers. Since the fall of 2023, the family of 12 has rebuilt their lives in Achajur.

“The nature here - the air, the climate - everything reminds us of Martakert,” says 52-year-old Ganna. “But what matters most is that we are together. Three sisters’ families live close by, supporting and helping one another.”

Artsakhi Hats was officially established a few months ago by Ganna’s cousin, 27-year-old Davit Avagyan, with a grant provided through the partnership between FAR and the Knights and Daughters of Vartan. The support allowed the family to purchase essential equipment, including bread ovens, a proofing chamber, a convection oven, a fryer, and baking trays - tools that made it possible to turn their experience into a sustainable business.

Today, the bakery serves as a primary source of bread and bulki (sweet bread) for the village and its school, becoming part of the community’s daily life.

“The bakery brought new light into our lives,” Davit says. “Deep down, I always believed we would succeed.”

Before applying for the grant, Davit participated in FAR-organized business courses, which helped him shape a strong business plan - one that ultimately became a winning proposal. Looking ahead, the family has clear goals: to expand production, bring back more pastry varieties, and supply their baked goods to nearby villages and regional stores.

If you want to help more Artsakhtsis find a new beginning and a source of stability, please consider donating to FAR today.